The Grand Mosque (5/25-26)

5/25-5/26

Unfortunately, the Jet Skiing in the Persian Gulf off of "Failaka Island," near Iraq and Iran was delayed until Wednesday.

On Saturday the 25th, we went to the "Grand Mosque" of Kuwait, a huge, state-run Islamic complex with a 10,000 person capacity outdoor prayer area, a women's prayer room, educational facilities, and recreational areas for children. The girls in our group were asked to wear Burkas while they were inside, and we had to go barefoot into the indoor prayer rooms. We had a guided tour by a teacher from the "Aware Center" of Kuwait, a group that educates visitors and people around the world on the basic tenets of Islam, and dispelling misconceptions on the religion. It is a very simple religion, and a presentation by the teacher cleared up a lot of my questions. This was the first mosque I had ever been to. 

On Sunday the 26th, we went to class and talked for  a while with Kuwaiti students at AUK (their Sunday is our Monday). It was staggering how great their english was, as a few of them spoke the language better than I ever have. At night, we went to the "American Mission Hospital" museum. Built on the sight of the old hospital itself, this museum chronicles the story of a group of Christian missionary doctors from the US who built this hospital in 1911, effectively introducing sophisticated healthcare to Kuwait. Before their arrival, Kuwaitis and many Muslims of the Arabian peninsula denounced healthcare remedies and accepted sickness as "God's will." While they did not achieve many conversions to Christianity, it established early good-will between Kuwait and the Western world. Also in the Museum were ancient artifacts from the Arabian peninsula, and ancient manuscripts of the Koran from as early as 700AD, only decades after the religion's founding. ***Sorry to say, we were not allowed to take pictures in this building, refer to website if you want to see what was inside: Dar al-Athar al-Islamiyyah Museum

The Grand Mosque of Kuwait

A few classmates and our professor wearing Burkas, which they had to have on to enter prayer areas.

An Imam (left) and our Mosque tour guide (right)

Child running down the colonnade of the main prayer area

Main prayer area, contrasted with the building of a massive skyscraper in the background

Main prayer area

Partial shot of Kuwait City skyline. The twisty building in the middle is the "Alhamra," the tallest "sculpted" tower in the world. 

Pita makers in the "Old Souk" open-air market. We were allowed to go in and make the bread ourselves.

Child running down street in "Old Souk" market

Kuwait City sunset over the Persian Gulf

Uniquely Kuwaiti contrast between run-down ex-pat housing on the right, and a high-class Mariott on the left. Run-down buildings among brand-new ones is a recurring theme in downtown Kuwait City.

Liberation Tower in Kuwait City

Walking by their table after dinner, this group of Kuwaiti men first offered us the food off of their plates, then asked us to take a picture of them, because they knew we are Americans. Walking around, many Kuwaitis shout things at us like "I love America" and "We love you!" It is obvious that most Kuwaitis adore America, due to our role in the First Gulf War and our current protection of their security. On the other hand, we also get a lot of stares because a big pack of American tourists stick out like sore thumbs.

Intro and first two days in class (5/22-5/24)

Summer Course in Kuwait-"Politics and Oil in the Gulf"

Boston College, May 22nd-June 17th, 2013

By Campbell Wallace

Introduction and few things learned, seen in first 3 days

Thanks a lot for checking in on my trip; I appreciate it (and especially those who funded this thing). So I just started a BC Political Science/International Political Economy course in Kuwait that lasts from May 22nd-June 17th. We are based in Kuwait City, but throughout the trip we take two 3-night, weekend "side-trips" to Doha, Qatar and two cities in the United Arab Emirates: Dubai and Abu Dhabi. We take our classes at American University of Kuwait, an English-speaking college in Kuwait City that schools some of Kuwait's best students. The course in taught by a BC Poli-Sci professor, Mrs. Kathleen Bailey. 

Some stuff I've learned right away in Kuwait

• This place is hot. It's been in the hundreds, and in about two weeks the temperature is expected in the 110s-120s
• We're in a desert. Kuwait has almost zero rainfall every year, so the country is basically unable to grow any food for itself. I haven't seen a cloud in all my 3 days. 
• Although more modern from oil wealth, Kuwait is still a very conservative place. The executive is a monarch (Emir), women only gained the right to vote in 2005, a few years ago the parliament voted to prohibit Christian churches (but it was not signed by the Emir), and political parties are banned.
• The population is only 1/3 Kuwaiti. The rest of the people are ex-pats from all around the world who come to work in the oil business, and many are from SE Asia who work in the service industry (maids, waiters, etc..). Most ex-pats are discriminated against, and don't enjoy the same rights and benefits as Kuwaitis. 
• While ex-pats are doing all the hard work and producing most of the country's GDP, native Kuwaitis themselves are the beneficiaries of a massive welfare state. Using almost entirely state Oil revenues, the Kuwaiti government give out massive amounts of money and jobs to its people. Over 90% of Kuwaitis are employed by the government in some way.
• There are ZERO taxes in Kuwait, and the unemployment rate of Kuwaitis is 2.2%

Now for more fun stuff: things I saw in first few days

View of Kuwait City in the distance, from the shores of the Persian Gulf.

Flag of Kuwait, Kuwait City in distance

Kuwaiti Saints fan

My favorite picture so far: Man selling dates, a historical Gulf commodity, in the "Old Souk" open air market

NEXT UP: Tomorrow trying to go and jet-ski on the Persian Gulf, then touring the "Great Mosque" of Kuwait. Sunday: going to Failaka Island, Kuwait off the coast of Iraq and Iran.